Causes
1. Flash-off time too long when working wet on wet with 2K products (gel phase)
2. Recoating of solvent-sensitive layers (NC/TPA) with the wrong repair materials or with excessive film builds
3. Film thickness of sealing coats too low (applied too thin or sanded down too far)
4. Substrate layers not thoroughly drie

How to avoid
1. Always keep to recommended flash-off times.
2.​ Carry out a solvent test and select a suitable paint system.
3. Keep to recommended film builds.
4. Re-dry the substrate, if necessary (e.g., with IR lamps)

Repair
Sand down the paint system to a “sound” surface. Refinish using the recommended undercoats and topcoats.

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Causes
1. Excessive peroxide from a polyester body filler causes a yellow-brownish stain in the topcoat. Blue and green colors are particularly vulnerable to this problem
2. Soluble dyes from the old paintwork are dissolved by the solvent of the repair materials and thus change the color of the surface.
3. Residues from bitumen and tar.

How to avoid
1. Only use the recommended amount of peroxide hardener for the polyester body filler. Mix hardener and body filler thoroughly.
2. Carry out a solvent test. Soluble dyes have not been used in OEM coatings and in any repair materials for many years.
3. Remove all residues from bitumen and tar before painting.

Repair
To repair areas damaged by “bleeding”, use suitable isolating products, such as Stone Chip and Underbody Protection or Primer Filler, if applicable. In case of major damages, sand the paint system down to a “sound” surface. Refinish using the recommended undercoats and topcoats.

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Causes
Loss of adhesion can occur when:
1. substances, which can cause adhesion failure, were left on the substrate when it was painted (e.g., silicone, oil, grease, wax, rust, sanding residue, etc.)
2. an unsuitable primer was applied to the substrate
3. the substrate was sanded insufficiently or not at all
4. undercoat or basecoat were applied too dry or too thin
5. drying conditions were not respected.

How to avoid
To avoid loss of adhesion, always use the suitable primer for the respective substrate (e.g., for aluminum or plastic). Apply undercoat materials as specified (in the technical data sheets). Do not apply excessive film builds. Thoroughly clean the substrate before painting.

Repair
Remove all coats with poor adhesion. Thoroughly sand and clean the substrate. Repaint using the recommended undercoats and/or topcoats.

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Causes
1. Inappropriate paint system used on thermoplastic substrates (direct use of polyester body fillers/ fillers, wash primers/ synthetic resin products on TPA) which caused the TPA surface to soften
2. Refinished paintwork insufficiently cured (too little or no hardener used)
3. Inappropriate paint system used: Wash primer overcoated with polyester products Synthetic resin or nitro-cellulose paints overcoated too early
4. Cracks on plastic parts:
5. see entry on “Faults in painting plastics”
6. Exposure to strong UV radiation, extreme temperature fluctuations
7. Flash-off time too short in wet-on-wet process
8. Total film build too high

How to avoid
1. Apply a suitable paint system to the substrate.
2. Ensure correct hardener quantities.
3. Use correct paint system.
4. Plasticize materials.
5. There are no complaints about “cracking” with regard to present automotive refinish products.
6. Respect recommended flash-off times.
7. Check paint system and film thickness of old paintwork and sand down or strip down, if necessary.

Repair
Sand down to the “sound” layers. Refinish using the recommended undercoats and topcoats.

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Causes
1. Uneven basecoat application
2. Basecoat flash-off time too short prior to application of clearcoat
3. Basecoat applied too wet or too thin

How to avoid
1. Apply basecoat evenly.
2. Keep to recommended flash-off times.
3. Apply the basecoat as recommended in the technical data sheets

Repair
If clouding/mottling occurs during the application of the basecoat, compensate by spraying a mist coat (basecoat) over the affected area. If clouding/mottling occurs after the clearcoat has been applied, allow to dry, sand down, and repaint.

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Causes
Stones are flung onto the paintwork at varying levels of energy (velocity/size). Depending on the impact force, the top layers and also the lower paint layers underneath can be damaged down to the substrate. At the points of damage, humidity will penetrate the coating and lead to corrosion creepback and flaking.

How to avoid
There is no total protection against stone chips. Areas most greatly at risk can be given preventive treatment of additional stone chip and underbody protection (Stone Chip and Underbody Protection black) and/or the use of Softface Additive. An extremely scratch-resistant clearcoat offers protection against small stone chips.

Repair
Stone chips should be touched-up immediately. Refinish using the recommended undercoats and/or topcoats.

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Causes
1. Uneven basecoat application
2. Basecoat flash-off time too short prior to application of clearcoat
3. Basecoat applied too wet or too thin

How to avoid
1. Apply basecoat evenly.
2. Keep to recommended flash-off times.
3. Apply the basecoat as recommended in the technical data sheets

Repair
If clouding/mottling occurs during the application of the basecoat, compensate by spraying a mist coat (basecoat) over the affected area. If clouding/mottling occurs after the clearcoat has been applied, allow to dry, sand down, and repaint.

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Causes
1. Color of substrate not matched
2. Color with poor hiding power (e.g., no heavy metal pigment)
3. Topcoat overthinned
4. Topcoat not stirred properly prior to use
5. Paint layers applied too thinly

How to avoid
1. For translucent colors in particular (pearl effects in a three-layer system), a uniform substrate is required.
2. For colors with poor hiding power, use Tintable Filler. Alternatively, use primer filler/surfacer mixed at a level of brightness matching the topcoat, such as Primer Filler black mixed with Primer Filler white, or, with the wet-on-wet method, Non-Sanding Filler dark grey mixed with Non-Sanding Filler white.
3. Stir the paint material thoroughly and thin only as specified.
4. Spray sufficiently thick coats and allow for sufficient flash-off times between coats (solid colors 50-70 µm, metallic effects 15-25 µm).

Repair
After drying, sand down and apply a new finish.

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Causes
1. Spraygun held too far from object
2. Spray pressure too low (poor atomization)
3. Paint film too thin
4. Viscosity too high (paint too thick)
5. Hardener and/or thinner too fast for the conditions or size of object
6. Spray nozzle too small
7. Flash-off time too long between coats

How to avoid
1. Keep spraygun within the recommended distance from the object.
2. Ensure spray pressure is as recommended.
3. Always apply wet coats.
4. Adjust paint viscosity as recommended.
5. Choose correct hardener and thinner.
6. See tech data for correct choice of spray nozzle.
7. Allow a long enough flash-off between coats.

Repair
For minor problems, sand down with P1200, polish with Fine Polishing Compound and finish with any standard high-gloss polish. For major problems, sand down completely and apply a new finish.

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Causes
1. Paint sinkage
2. Excessive film thicknesses
3. Weathering (results of the action of sulfur dioxide or nitrogen oxide combined with moisture and/or severe UV radiation)
4. Wrong amount of hardener
5. Poor or incorrect paintwork care
6. Incorrect polishing (polish too aggressive or polished in direct sunlight)
7. Weathered surfaces due to poor paintwork aftercare
8. Car wash brushes too coarse
9. Car cleaning agent too aggressive or concentrated
10. Newly repaired paintwork weathered too early. Thick coats or newly repaired paintwork are sensitive to condensation (below dew point)
11. Insufficient air circulation during drying

How to avoid
1. Keep to recommended film thicknesses. Use the grey shade concept for poor covering colors (yellow/red). The grey shade concept comprises the primer fillers gray, black and white.
2. Ensure regular paintwork after-care.
3. Keep to recommended mixing ratios.
4. Keep to recommended film thicknesses and drying times.
5. Check air circulation, replace floor and ceiling filters if necessary. If in doubt, consult your spraybooth manufacturer.

Repair
First polish with Fine Polishing Compound and finish with any standard high-gloss polish. If the gloss cannot be restored, you need to repaint.

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